![]() If they find a problem they have reason to believe was caused by some previous owner's ham-handed tinkering they may ask for your credit card, or if it's a quick repair and inexpensive part for them, they may just fix it for customer good will. They may ask if you're the original owner, or they may not even care (although technically, the warranty is for the original owner). If someone has previously buggered this revolver up by tinkering with it, it might be easiest to simply call S&W and try to get a prepaid shipping label, and have the factory inspect and repair the gun. ![]() (Minor fitting with a Barrett file may still be required for proper carry-up in some particular gun, but the one I cut in the class, and the ones I've cut afterward, have all given proper carry-up just after being cut with the factory tool.) Then, the armorer briskly and firmly cycles the trigger in DA (via lever pulls) which cuts the end off each ratchet point of the new extractor with each lever/trigger pull. The sideplate is removed and the trigger/cutting hand tool is "installed", the cylinder with the new extractor installed in it, and the yoke, installed in the frame. ![]() It's basically the appropriate trigger for the revolver (J-frame, in this instance), with a specially hardened cutting "hand" for the trigger, and a steel bar is welded to the trigger to provide cutting leverage. S&W revolver armorers get factory-made hand-cutting tools in the factory revolver armorer tool kits. While it's simple to replace the rod, replacing the extractor involves "cutting" a new one (meaning cutting off the extractor ratchet points). If that's the case, it's possible the extractor's threads and the extractor rod's threads have been damaged. If this is a used gun (2013 gun, but new-to-you?), I'd not rule out that a previous owner might've done some kitchen-table tinkering and over-tightened the extractor and extractor rod. However, having to "shim" a recent production S&W J-frame that probably hasn't been fired much isn't something I'd be rushing to do in one of my J's. Now, if it were me, I'd check the yoke alignment (J-frame yoke liner for this purpose). ![]() 068 gauge to just go in, but I've never had a failure-to-fire or light primer indentation, and I've used several brands of American-made ammunition ranging from "budget" loads to premium loads. One of my own M&P 340's has a cylinder headspace (right out of the box) that allows the. 068 gauge going in was "generous" but still okay. 012-.018", but the headspace for the newer non-recessed cylinders ought to be. Perform a function check and you should be good to go.Click to expand.When I went through my S&W DAO revolver armorer class we were given go/no-go flag gauges and told that checking the headspace for the recessed cylinder model revolvers ought to be. At this point you are finished and ready to reassemble the slide onto the frame. Just make sure you have it securely caught. It is difficult to pivot the extractor and it barely moves to begin with. Then release the pressure on the plunger and check to see that the extractor is fitting flush. I used the end of a cleaning rod to press the plunger rearward but a strong wooden dowel or a brass drift will also work nicely. The plunger must be pressed rearward enough so that the holes line up and so that you can install the tip of your disassembly tool into the plunger hole and hold it there while you insert the clean and oiled extractor leg into it's hole. You must press the plunger rearward, compressing the stiff spring as you do. Here you will need some assistance.Įither back the rear of the slide into something solid, install it in a vise or have a friend hold it down. Make sure the plunger is properly oriented so that the front lip is turned toward the top and that the hole will align with the one in the slide. Insert the spring into the slide utilizing the plunger. One end on mine fit better than the other end. Insert the pin on the end of the plunger into the spring. Clean and lightly oil all parts including the slide. If you have removed all of the components reassembly is as follows.
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